Words by Benjamin Clark.
Ladies and gentlemen, we wish you the warmest of welcomes to the inaugural edition of the Morgan & Fenwick 'CHALK' magazine. This bespoke collection is made up of our own self-produced articles and photographs detailing our thoughts on the upcoming season, and championing our partner businesses. We’re also sharing our aspirations in creating a sustainable, luxury brand of authentic bespoke formal wear for the modern man and woman.
It has been, to say the least, a challenging year for us all. The tailoring industry has seen a swift decline in trouser orders due to them being deemed unnecessary for zoom conferences. But not at Morgan & Fenwick where our clients dress for themselves, not for others and choose to look stylish at all times. That’s why we’re looking forward to the winter season. Wrapping up warm, getting cosy for Christmas and looking clean-cut for the countdown to 2021. In this edition we’ve got a wonderful series of pieces on sustainable fashion, shooting suits, and our seasonal fashion forecast. But, let’s start at the very beginning - a very good place to start, I’m told - by answering the question: ‘Why should you get a bespoke suit this season?’ Winter is indeed coming and we’re not suggesting you have to spend the season dressed like Jon Snow. But you can refresh your wardrobe to stay smart, sustainable and shielded from the cold weather.
Yorkshire has been the center of the UK textiles industry since the fourteenth century. You see, there was once a time when the high street didn’t promote fast fashion. People used to invest in high-quality clothes that lasted them a lifetime rather than just a summer, because that was the only way clothes were available. Towns like Huddersfield, Saltaire and Leeds became the home to artisans of cloth. And these centuries of craftsmanship have cemented Yorkshire - the home of Morgan & Fenwick - as the world's prestige textiles capital. You just can’t get more authentic than having your suit woven and tailored in Leeds. We’ve got a whole article in this edition detailing the history of Yorkshire’s cloth industry, so be sure to read on.
Tailoring is important, not only for its history but also for its future. Contrary to popular belief, we cannot organise 7 billion people’s body types into ‘small’, ‘medium’ or ‘large’. We don’t use three shoe sizes for everyone otherwise we’d all be falling over, the same applies to proper clothing. At Morgan and Fenwick, we firmly believe that everyone - women and men - can have a beautifully fitted suit that compliments their body, making them feel confident, handsome and sophisticated. Bespoke clothing can do wonders for your body confidence and attitude, you can walk out the front door knowing you’ll be the best dressed in any room, wearing a flattering outfit that doesn’t battle with you.
I own a suit from Top Man and there's all sorts of issues with it. It’s too wide on my shoulders and yet too tight across my ribs. The arms are too short and they’re too baggy around my (non-existent) biceps. The jacket doesn’t hug me as it should, it’s like it’s rejecting me, pulling away from my body rather than working with it as one. I feel restricted when I move yet it’s not staying tight to me in any way. This is the standard for high street suits, you’re never going to find a suit that compliments your physique. Even when you go to most high street tailors, they’re taking your measurements alright but then they’re still outsourcing the job. Your suit will be made in another country where they’ll use a standardised pattern and alter it to fit a little better than the standard high street suit. This is called ‘made to measure’, but it isn’t bespoke.
Our bespoke tailored process removes both problems you encounter with the high street experience. There’s no stress involved searching through different shops and your suit is guaranteed to fit you perfectly. When we take your measurements to create your own personal pattern, we’re ensuring that the suit will fit you perfectly in every area. This creates a much tighter fitting, smarter looking, luxury piece without restricting any movement. Our bespoke suits use a canvas, inside the cloth, to ensure your jacket keeps its shape forever. The idea behind a bespoke suit is that it’s made to breathe and grow with you. Whether you build muscle or lose weight, our suits are designed so that you can bring them back to us to be taken in or out. We don’t believe in fast fashion. We believe in sustainable clothing made for life.
‘So the British tailoring industry is steeped in history, fast fashion is contributing to global warming, unfair wages and exploitation of workers. And my high street suit doesn’t fit whatsoever. I’m still not convinced though’ I hear you say. Well, let me give you three more reasons why you need one of our bespoke tailored suits this season.
Reason 1) It’s for the next winter as well, and the one after that, and the one after that. In fact, this suit is forever. Think of it another way; you buy a new black suit for £200 each year because your old one doesn’t fit any more or the cheap material has faded and frayed. It’s much more sustainable, economically and environmentally, to spend more at the start. Spend it on a suit that won’t just last 5 years but more like 25 or even more. Spend it on luxury cloth and a tailor that will adjust and maintain it as much as you need.
Reason 2) To stay warm and dry. Why not come for a consultation with us to order an over-coat or a waterproof suit? Yes, waterproof. We now offer cloth that is resistant to water. We also offer thicker Worsted and heavy British Tweed to keep you insulated over the cold winter months.
Reason 3) Your suit will be completely unique to you! Here at our studio we never make the same suit twice - there are so many options to customise how your suit looks. Whether it’s the cloth and lining combination, or perhaps the buttons or thread. Even whether your jacket is double or single-breasted, your suit is guaranteed to be one of a kind. That’s the whole point of a properly tailored suit, it’s bespoke!
I’ve definitely convinced myself, so I’m getting measured in time to get my suit for Christmas and now is also the time for you to book your consultation. I’ve had a wonderful time curating the articles for the Morgan & Fenwick Zine this season and I’ve thoroughly enjoyed reading the words from our fantastic contributors, so please read on, I promise you it’s well worth it.
Thanks for joining us, enjoy CHALK and have a brilliant holiday season.
Benjamin Clark
Digital Marketing Intern @ Morgan & Fenwick Bespoke British Tailoring.